Людоньки, що ж це діється. Не дивно, що гітаристи не дають інтерв’ю про Раммштайн, і ні про які мейкінги не може йти мова. Я сіла почитати інтерв’ю з парфумером, який створює парфуми Раммштайн, просто інтерв’ю з парфумером – і я в глибокому ахуї.
Сам парфумер француз, зараз живе у Німеччині. Раммштайни звернулися до нього з пропозицією створити для них парфум у 2017 році, і з того часу вони співпрацюють. Раммштайни контролюють те, що випускається під їхнім іменем, вони мають особисто схвалити продукт. І говорячи «раммштайни», я маю на увазі гітаристів, бо саме вони займаються бізнесом Раммштайн.
Картина того, як гітаристи сидять і всерйоз нюхають та обговорюють парфуми – це пиздець сам по собі, але це лише початок.
Парфумер наголошує, що кожен запах Раммштайн має відповідати тому, якою є група на даному етапі. Так що зрозуміти Раммштайн можна всіма органами: очами, вухами – і носом. Перші парфуми відображали традиційне уявлення про Раммштайн: Цвінгер – це тваринний парфум, Кокаїн – це парфум шлюшок. З цим все ясно, такою була ідея запахів Раммштайн у 2017 році.
А після туру-2019 з парфумами почався той же пиздець, що й з усім у Раммштайн. Гітаристам знадобився парфум з жіночим запахом, який можуть носити чоловіки. Та ще й зі вшануванням падіння Стіни. Так з’явився Розенрот – металева троянда для воїна. Якщо це не було подарунком Ріхарду, то я нічого не розумію в цьому житті. Жіночий парфум для чоловіків з аурою металевої троянди – таким є світ Раммштайн. Був на 2019 рік.
Бо у 2022 році гітаристам знадобився новий парфум – парфум-сперма. У Зіманн закладене подвійне значення – да-да, це як Круспе-підписи з грою слів, і тільки гітаристи могли почути в слові Зіманн слово сперма.
Це я коротко вивела суть того, що наговорив парфумер. Щоб не думали, що Іванна йобнулася, і оскільки в мене немає моральних сил розлого описувати цей пиздець, я просто процитую тут частину інтерв’ю з парфумером Alexandre Illan.
А. І.: Before I started making perfumes for Rammstein, I didn't even know who they were. They came for the first project, I was shown one of their videos, and I thought, "what kind of music is that?" They sing 99% of their songs in German; it's industrial heavy metal, very decadent, and sometimes the lyrics are very hard.
It's rather unexpected for a band like Rammstein to have a fragrance line, isn't it?
А. І.: Well, it's not Arianna Grande, and so when they came to me, they told me they didn't want any sugar notes. They don't want to be a celebrity fragrance line. They want their perfumes to be a continuation of their DNA. The license is very connected with the band; everything has to have the green light from them. The creative director of the perfume brand is really creative and very funny to talk to because he has been in the industry for a long time and has worked with a lot of brands, but he has a different view, outside of the box. So, he managed to connect these two worlds and their image.
They first came to me in 2017 with the idea of creating something that wouldn't be pleasant. It should be ugly, animalic, dirty, and the first reaction of people who smell it from the bottle should be "ew!" So I prepared something animalic. We made the first one, Zwinger, which arrived in 2019 in a black bottle with a pipette. When you go to Berlin and visit a dungeon, Zwinger is a guy in a leather suit inside a cage. After that, there was a story about a lady with big boobs and lips who goes to a concert. She is attracted by the band, as she is a groupie, and she wants to have sex with one of the guys at the after-party. I presented this perfume as a scent for a bimbo, and they loved it; they launched it as Kokain. It was crazy; it was even forbidden in Australia because people thought that if there is Kokain written on the box, there is Cocaine inside the bottle. We continued the Kokain line, and it became huge. It's part of the sex, drugs, and rock'n'roll imaginary of the band.
The line has grown so much, with a total of 14 scents now...
Yes, and I started to get more involved with the brand and the people behind it. The following Kokain perfumes were supposed to be just more concentrated versions of the original Kokain, but I thought we needed to respect our consumers and rework the new fragrances. We also made Rosenrot, which I love. We presented this fragrance to the team in Berlin in November 2019, and this was the time when they were celebrating the 30 years of the destruction of the Berlin Wall. The story behind this fragrance was to bring hope to the people who fought for its destruction.
So, with all this dust, all these ruins, metal, and stones comes a metallic rose for a warrior. The idea was to make a feminine fragrance that could be worn by men because there is this woody aspect. For me, the scent is floral, woody, spicy, and ambery with a little bit of blood and a sharp element coming from ambrostar, which is one of our captive molecules, as well as ambroxan to give it an ambery facet. It starts green, sharp, and metallic, and then it becomes smooth with olibanum, which is a signature ingredient in all Rammstein fragrances. Also, we have to always match with what the band is doing, their world, speech, and image.
The last edition is called Seemann Intense, which I have already smelled and announced here on Fragrantica. Can you tell us a little more about it?
А. І.: Seemann is a song about guys going out to sea to fish and earn a living, then dying because of a storm. So, the original Seemann is the sad story of a wife waiting for her husband to return. The perfume aims to smell like seaweed and rusty pieces from the boat. It's woody, and it smells a little like sushi. The new one, Seemann Intense, is a stronger interpretation of it. The composition was also changed; I reworked some of the facets, turning it more fresh, ozonic, and easy to wear. The name could have two meanings. 'Seemann' as a man from the sea, but also semen; they like this kind of ambiguous play. The perfume smells like seaweed, fish, rust, oysters...
So have you now started listening to Rammstein?
А. І.: Yes, now I do. Sometimes I play them at home for inspiration, and it's good but also very rough. It gives you so much power and energy. Recently, I was invited to go to Berlin for one of their shows, and it was amazing that I could smell Seemann throughout the crowd of 60 thousand people. It's a bomb, so you can't avoid it.
Повністю інтерв’ю тут
https://www.fragrantica.com/news/WPC-Interview-With-Alexandre-Illan-Perfumer-of-the-Rammstein-Line-and-More-16840.html?fbclid=IwAR35cF3duSu2SVQn2dAI-4VAxUTSuH7-ssVQsgvBLkQsxB3O9cQa8U8qyx8 Новий парфум Раммштайн з’явиться у вересні:
WAIDMANNS HEIL leads us through intensive Elemi resins directly into the depths of a coniferous forest... An impressive scent with a masculine character. Ladies who prefer animal notes and the scent of the forest will also find what they are looking for here!
Це герр захотів парфум для себе, щоб весь такий мужній був. Але герр не розрахував, що поки парфум робили, герр сильно змінився під час туру, тепер воно трохи як насмішка над герром.